Rough Wiring Methods and Codes in Delaware County and Montgomery County.
Open Stud Stage Rough Wiring for Receptacles, Switches, High Hats, Appliances and LAN.
 What is needed for rough in wiring inspection?
 What is needed at each outlet and wall box?
Ask us anything about wires, cables, grounding codes at lights/boxes and pigtails.
Ask us what the inspector wants to see, and what is needed before drywall.

The Basic Standards for Electrical Rough In Wiring and the codes that apply must be seriously considered before any work can be started. The guide to follow is to first know the authorities and inspection agencies involved. Then you must know what and where your heaviest loads are. The common questions we get are: Can you put the hall plug on the same breaker as the dining room? How many switches have to be in the stairwell? What size wire do you use for a dryer? How many amps can 12-2-WG take? All of these questions are answered somewhere in the 700 (more or less) pages of the National Electric Code. It is our strong recommendation the to become familiar with the NEC.

The LightSmith for Rough Wiring, recessed fixtures, high hats and lighting fixtures.

Cable and Wire Pullers, Rough Wiring, Delaware County, PA electrical wiring.

Electrical Wiring Price List - Pricing Guide for Rough Wiring.

Rough Wiring for Floor Receptacles and Mid-Floor Wiring Requirements.

Rough Wiring - Local Area Network and Tele-communication Wiring.

Power Poles, Mid-Floor Wiring - Ethernet, Internet, Multi-Media, Data, LAN, Communication and Power Circuit Wiring.

Quick Connect Portable Generator, Quick-Connect Generator Tap Box For Emergency Power from a Portable Generator.

Rough Wiring - Electrical Receptacles for commercial and industrial applications.

Recessed Fixtures / Lighting Fixtures and choices between them
Locations, Locations, Locations -
Yes, the right locations. The rough-in stage involves a lot of work being done in what usually is a short span of time. In order to get everything done in this short time span means that you need to be prepared. You have to know what you want to get done and have the tools and materials on hand to get it done. The timing for the rough-in is critical. Ideally the rough-in wiring is should be done BEFORE the insulation. And it SHOULD be done AFTER the plumbers and HVAC people have finished their rough-in work. Working AFTER the electricians, plumbers and HVAC people have finished their rough-in will allow you to place your wiring such that you'll be keeping the minimum distance away from things like electrical wiring, etc. See the reference page for these minimum recommended distances. Remember that you can cross your structured wiring with the electrical wiring and have spacing less then the recommended minimum distance but you should do so at 90. The goal of the rough-in is to install all of your room outlet boxes and run the cabling from the outlet boxes back to where the CWP (Central Wiring Panel) is going to be located. You may want to actually install the CWP during the rough-in especially if you are going to flush mount your CWP. Having some form of a floorplan done showing the rough location of all the outlet boxes is a must.
Never wire a Kitchen without a floor plan.  If you try it you will be sorry. You also need to have a good idea of where the other rough-in plumbing pipes and ductwork will be.
All of the cable bundles are going to run and where they are going to be routed as they get back to the CWP. You have an option here at the rough-in stage that I haven't mentioned yet. You can install the actual cabling or you can just install 'pull cords'. Both of these options have pro's and con's. Let me explain what pull cords are and how they work. You can install pull cords running through the walls instead of the actual cable bundles during the rough-in. Then later on, usually after your home is finished, you secure the cable bundles to one end of this pull cord and pull on the other end of the pull cord which in turn pulls the cable bundles through the walls. Pull cords are just run through the walls from the outlet box to the attic or basement or crawl space.
Accent Lighting:   the directional to emphasize a particular object or to draw attention to a part of the field of view. The Electrical contractor, installing a recessed Baffle a single opaque or translucent element to shield a source from direct view at certain angles, or to absorb unwanted light. the Beam Angle the angle You can save a lot of money by doing your own wiring. Here we'll show you to wire an entire room. Even if you've never picked up an electrical tool in your life, you can safely rough-in wiring by following the directions in this article. You'll learn all of the pro techniques for a wiring job, including choosing the right size receptacle boxes, running cable throughout the room, and making the electrical connections.

Kitchen Receptacles - Code Summary
In the kitchen and eating areas every counter space wider than 12 inches must have a GFI protected plug, in general all kitchen counter top plugs should be GFI protected. Countertop receptacles shall be installed so that no point along the wall is more than 24" measured horizontally from a receptacle outlet in that space. Peninsular bars and islands 12" or wider shall have at least one receptacle. The installation of receptacles for island counter spaces and peninsular counter spaces below the countertop shall be optional.
At least two 20-ampere branch circuits are required to feed receptacle outlets for small appliance loads, including refrigeration equipment in the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, and dining room. These circuits, whether two or more are used, shall NOT supply anything other than receptacles in these areas. Lighting outlets and built-in appliances such as garbage disposals, hood fans, dishwashers, and trash compactors are NOT permitted on these circuits. Kitchen counter top receptacles must be supplied by at least two small appliance branch circuits.
Kitchen appliance and convenience receptacles must be on 20 amp breakers, and wired with 12 gauge wire.
Required Ground Fault Protection
A ground fault circuit interrupter must protect ALL receptacles listed below:
Bathroom receptacles, Outdoor receptacles, Garage receptacles.
Kitchen receptacles that serve counter top surfaces.
Counter top receptacles within 6 feet of a wet bar sink.
All receptacles in an unfinished basement:
Sump pumps, Crawl spaces at or below grade.
Spas, Hydro massage, Hot tubs and associated electrical components.
Pretty much any location where water and electricity might mix.
Required Arc Fault Circuit Interuptor protection - 208 NEC 210.12 (A)" An arc fault circuit interuper - AFCI is a device (usually if not always a breaker) designed to give protection from arc faults. An AFCI breaker will trip whenver an arc is detected. In all dwellings an arc fault circuit interrupter must protect ALL 120 volt 15 and 20 amp single phase receptacles in family rooms, living rooms, parlors, recreation rooms, dining rooms, libraries, dens, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallway or similar rooms. In other words pretty much all receptacles inside of a dwelling except the bathrooms, kitchen, laundry and garage must be AFCI protected.

Appliance Branch Circuits - Code Summary
The following Appliances must be on a separate 20-amp circuit: Dishwasher, Garbage disposal, Washing machine. As a general rule All 240-volt appliances must be on their own circuit. Hot tubs, garden tubs, Jacuzzis and the like must be GFI protected and wired as required for the particular model and local codes. The service areas of all appliances must be accessible after the final finish is complete.

Required Light Fixtures - Code Summary
General Lighting Branch Circuits shall be computed on a three watts per square foot basis. You may wire up to 600 square feet of living area on a 15 ampere branch circuit or up to 800 square feet on a 20-ampere circuit. These branch circuits may supply lighting outlets in all areas of the dwelling and convenience receptacles, other than Small Appliances, Laundry, Bathroom, or HVAC - as outlined above. Every room, hallway, stair way, attached garage, and outdoor entrance must have at least one light fixture controlled by a wall switch. However, in most rooms other than kitchens and bathrooms, the wall switch may control one or more plugs into which lamps may be plugged instead of a ceiling or wall mounted fixture. There must be at least one wall switch controlled light in a utility room, attic, basement or under floor space used for storage or which contains equipment such as heat and air, water heaters, sump pumps, etc. which may ever require service. The switch must be located at the entry point to these areas. Hallways and stairs with more than six steps require the lights to be controlled by a switch at each end. In closets, fluorescent fixtures must have at least 6 inches of clearance away from shelves or storables. In a typical two foot deep (approx.) closet, the fixture will be mounted on the wall just over the door. In summary, put a light in every room or large closet, outside of every exterior door, and under the floor and in the attic if there is electrical equipment in these spaces or if they are suitable for storage. Switch the room lights at every door entering the room, switch a hall or stairway at both ends, and switch exterior lights at the doors which they service. As a rule of thumb you can put up to ten average light fixtures on a single circuit, unless this will add up to excessive wattage for the circuit (note, a ceiling fan and light kit qualify as one fixture). Notable exceptions would be floodlights, which are high wattage fixtures. Four double bulb floodlights would pretty well fill up a circuit by themselves. The actual rule for this is to not exceed 80% of the calculated wattage capacity of the circuit. Wattage capacity of the circuit equals the amp rating of the breaker times the voltage (120), so for a typical 15 amp light circuit add up all of the maximum wattage's and make sure that they are less than 80% of 15x120 (1440 watts max). Keep in mind that the inspectors may be looking for no more than 10 fixtures (more or less according to local variances) per circuit.

Smoke Detectors - Code Summary
There must be a 120-volt battery back up smoke detector on the ceiling, or on the wall close to the ceiling in the area outside of every bedroom, and inside of each bedroom. All smoke detectors must be tied together so that if one goes off they all do. Smoke detectors must be protected by an arc fault breaker. When you are roughing in for smoke detectors daisy-chain them with 14-3 WG and the extra (red) wire will interconnect the system. Note that all bedrooms outlets must be protected by an arc-fault circuit interrupter listed to provide protection of the entire branch circuit. This includes wiring to the smoke detector outlets.210.12, NEC